Roxy Beaujolais, proprietor of the ancient Seven Stars in WC2, found a 1960s pub not far away and has turned it into a public house devoted to beef—serving the finest steaks and burgers at unbeatable prices, alongside cask-conditioned ales and excellent wines. Her architect husband Nathan Silver’s new design achieves the right balance between funky bistro and stylish saloon, with a warm atmosphere featuring dozens of pictures and posters glorifying beef.

As executive chef, Roxy has plenty of form. She is author of the classic pub cookbook, “Home From the Inn Contented,” and was co-presenter of the BBC’s “Full On Food.” So The Bountiful Cow focuses on exceptionally large and

well-made hamburgers (dubbed Bountyburgers), and of course, on steak.

Five cuts of beefsteak feature on menus: onglet/flank (for steak sandwiches), ribeye, sirloin, filet and T-bone, all aged many weeks for tenderness and flavour. Steaks can be had at no extra charge à la Capricorn (that is, with melted goat’s cheese), or with Béarnaise sauce, or green peppercorn sauce. Starters, chips, salads and desserts are appropriately simple and excellent, and the meat is always done to order with exact perfection by the grill chefs.

Managers at The Bountiful Cow are husband and wife Pepsi Dukowski and Cveta Dukowska, leading a terrific team of waiting staff and chefs. And behind the scenes are two fine Bengal pub cats, Biggie and Sugie. (Beautiful, but still too inexperienced to roam among customers.)