Roxy Beaujolais, proprietor of the ancient Seven Stars in WC2, found a 1960s pub not far away and has turned it into a public house devoted to beef-- serving the finest steaks and burgers at unbeatable prices, alongside cask-conditioned ales and excellent wines.  Her architect husband Nathan Silver's new design achieves the right balance between funky bistro and stylish saloon, with a warm atmosphere featuring dozens of pictures and posters glorifying beef.  

As head cook, Roxy has plenty of form.  She is author of the classic pub cookbook, "Home From the Inn Contented," and was co-presenter of the BBC's "Full On Food."  So The Bountiful Cow focuses on exceptionally large and well-made hamburgers (dubbed Bountyburgers), and of course, on steak.

Six cuts of beefsteak feature on menus: onglet/flank (for steak sandwiches), rump, ribeye, sirloin, filet and T-bone, all aged many weeks in-house for tenderness and flavour.  Steaks can be had at no extra charge à la Capricorn (that is, with melted goat's cheese), or with Béarnaise sauce, or green peppercorn sauce.  Starters, chips, salads and desserts are appropriately simple and excellent, and the meat is always done to order with exact perfection by the grill chefs.

The manager at The Bountiful Cow is Cveta Dukovska.  She leads a terrific team of waiting staff and chefs.  And behind the scenes are two fine Bengal pub cats, Biggie and Sugie.  (Beautiful, but too friendly to roam among customers.)

ABOUT THE SEVEN STARS

Changing subject, we can't resist copying in Bruce Anderson's astounding piece in The Spectator for 27 August 2011, headlined "London's Best Pub" on the cover: